The prototype of Kelly and Birkin?
Handbags are an essential fashion item for every woman, symbolizing taste and personality. Different occasions and ages call for different handbags. A timeless and classic handbag is naturally a must-have in everyone's wardrobe, because even as trends change, handbags don't lose their value. On the contrary, some classic styles only increase in value with time and the passage of time. Timeless classic styles always have a market, and brands tirelessly release replicas and refined versions of classic designs, which are highly sought after. But do you know when the first designer handbag was launched? And what style was it?
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Historically, the first designer handbag was launched in 1922 by the French brand Hermès. As is well known, Hermès initially specialized in making equestrian equipment, gradually transforming into a top-tier leather goods manufacturer. The design of the first handbag originated from a complaint by Émile-Maurice, the third-generation head of Hermès, that the wife of the brand's third-generation owner didn't have a style she liked. He personally designed the smaller Haut à Courroies, the prototype for the Kelly and Birkin bags. Later, in 1935, Émile-Maurice's son-in-law, Robert Dumas, redesigned the handbag and named it Sac à dépêches. It was this handbag that brought fame to Hollywood actress and Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco in 1956 when she used it to conceal her slightly protruding pregnant belly. With permission from the Monaco royal family, Hermès renamed the handbag Kelly.
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In 1983, Jean-Louis Dumas, then CEO of Hermès, met British actress Jane Birkin on a plane. Birkin was looking for a handbag with enough capacity and interior pockets to hold her belongings. Dumas began designing for Birkin on the plane, initially drawing inspiration from the Haut à Courroies. After a redesign, the Birkin handbag was born and remains a favorite among Hermès fans worldwide. Following the Birkin's debut, Hermès also began releasing smaller versions of the Haut à Courroies. The first Birkins were 35 and 40 cm wide, while the first smaller Haut à Courroies handbags were only 32 cm wide, smaller than the Birkin. Later in the 2000s, Hermès also produced Haut à Courroies handbags in 28cm and 35cm sizes, although the 28cm and 32cm sizes have been discontinued.
The first Birkin bag to go.
Image source: V&A museum
How to distinguish between Haut à Courroies and Birkin?
Birkin 40cm and Haut a Courroies 40cm
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Although Birkin and Haut à Courroies both have the same rectangular silhouette, their proportions are completely different. Haut à Courroies are taller and closer to a rectangular shape, while Birkin is shorter but wider, appearing wider and flatter in proportion. Furthermore, the two bags have slightly different handles. Although both have a double-handle design, the Haut à Courroies handle is shorter, while the Birkin's handle has a slightly longer loop. Finally, the Haut à Courroies bag has curved stitching on all four sides of the bottom, a design feature intended to provide greater sturdiness for storing saddles.
The Haut à Courroies resembles a tote bag. Its rectangular design easily accommodates A4 documents and a laptop, making it very practical for those who frequently carry documents and laptops to work. The Birkin, on the other hand, is suitable for various occasions, especially important events and banquets, where it exudes elegance and sophistication. Both bags have their own unique features, but the Birkin is undoubtedly more popular in the market, and its collectible value continues to rise.
Handbags are an essential fashion item for every woman, symbolizing taste and personality. Different occasions and ages call for different handbags. A timeless and classic handbag is naturally a must-have in everyone's wardrobe. Even as trends change, handbags don't lose their value; in fact, some classic styles only increase in value with time and the passage of years. Timeless classics always have a market, and brands tirelessly release reissues and refining versions of classic designs, which are highly sought after. But do you know when your first designer handbag was released? And what style was it?
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